July 28, 2011

Italy: Tuscany

Jenny and Ken get married



Well wouldn't you just know it, but in the summer of 2011 I was in Italian Wedding Heaven as within two weeks of getting back from Amalfi I was back on a plane to the land of pasta, Fiat, opera and massive sunglasses for another unforgettable wedding.

La Dolce Vita.

This time it was the turn of my good friends Jenny and Ken. And pleasingly for me it was a different part of Italy we were headed to: the rolling countryside hills of Tuscany and ancient town of Siena.

Unlike in Amalfi, for J & K's bash all guests were staying in the same venue - a sprawling mansion and its buildings, packed full of hundreds of years' worth of history. It was a incredible place.

I'd flown out with friends Mark, Jake, Barbara, Lizzy and Lara and we had picked up a couple of hire cars at Pisa airport.

The journey was largely uneventful, save for getting slightly lost on the Autostrada (and me having a mini hissy fit with Lizzy and Lara and their map-reading. Sorry guys.) and Jacob scraping the wheel of his car on a kerb.

But before long, and after a pit stop at a supermarket to pick up supplies for our self-catering cottages, we arrived.

Lizzy and Lara were in an apartment near the main hall of the venue...


...while Mark and I shared one room and Jake and Barbara the other in what was possibly the perfect pad for a wedding guest. We had a large kitchen/diner/lounge, with a door that opened onto a grassy veranda that looked over this:


When I saw that I metaphorically spat out my Cornflakes. What a view.

And that wasn't all. Our cottage had the double-whammied benefit of being a) the furthest apartment from the other rooms, meaning it was the obvious venue for noisy late-night shenanigans and b) the nearest apartment to the swimming pool - a 30 metre walk up a fir-tree lined path:


So basically we were like pigs (or should that be boars?) in shit.

We spent the first couple of days making new friends by the pool (amazing what a shared interest in The Human Centipede can do), eating pizza, drinking in Siena and kicking back on our veranda with a view.

It was the first time I'd caught up with most of my mates in 6-7 months following my sabbatical travels, and had a laugh with Simon, Gaz, DJ Gelato and others.











The big day was soon upon us and we were ferried to nearby Siena in buses. The main piazza, where we'd gathered the previous evening for drinks, was the venue for a quick stiffener before the Town Hall event.

The ceremony took place in an atmospheric room inside the famous town hall and it was great to see Jenny being walked down the aisle by Father Ted and Ken decked out in his Sunday best. The sunshine-yellow theme worn by the groom, bridesmaids and ushers was a nice summery touch.



Proceedings done - first in English and then Italian for legal formalities - Mr and Mrs Easter walked out into the bright sunshine of the piazza, where hundreds of local and tourist onlookers craned their necks to get a look at the married couple. We got a few snaps ourselves:



The reception was back at the venue. On our return we were met by a duo playing live stringed music on a lawn in the gardens and were soon diving into the prosecco and tempura canapes. We spent an enjoyable hour or two lounging in the sunshine in an incredibly picturesque setting.

If Carlsberg did weddings...



The meal and speeches took place in the central courtyard under the backdrop of the centuries-old mansion house. Ted's deadpan delivery during his Father Of The Bride speech was hilarious, a stream of Carter USM jokes, anecdotes about Jenny's teenage traumas and several gentle-but-cutting putdowns of poor Ken. All in good humour, all brilliant.


Best man Badger then delivered a similarly witty speech as only he could: spoken like an RAF corporal showing up a younger officer (ie, Ken).



The tasty meal lasted a couple of hours and then it was onto the dancing, first outside in another courtyard and prompted by a live band (including a slightly lecherous lead singer who kept thrusting at anything in a skirt) and then inside under the tutelage of DJ Gelato.




Jenny, being the cheese obsessive that she is, had organised a unique wedding cake:


Mmm, cheese.

Things were quite boozy by this stage, and everyone got their groove on to a series of dancefloor fillers - Come On Irene, Girls and Boys, D.I.S.C.O and more.


At some point in the early hours the owner of the venue, perhaps not familiar with the British way of celebrating weddings (ie, lots of booze, dancing to Cyndi Lauper) gently asked us to cut the cord and head to our rooms.

A plan was swiftly hatched to continue the night at our cottage down the hill, and Chris was soon putting it into action by hauling the speaker off over his shoulder.


We were soon set up back at our place and Gelato decided to get the message out about the new dancefloor by playing a dubstep tune at Volume 11. They probably heard it in Rome.

I would go into detail about the next few hours but I'd be lying as I can't remember much. I blame the Pampero rum - a South American favourite of mine, but bought in an Italian supermarket:



We all took turns on the decks and, despite some dodgy connections on the leads, kept the music going well into the early hours:


It was a great party, and a fitting end to a memorable day.

The following morning we hauled our weary bodies up the hill to eat a post-wedding breakfast. We were in collective 'hanging' mode - a 100-strong hungover collection of weary partygoers tucking into pastries, cheeses, hams and buckets of OJ.

At one point I sought out some shade to rest my pounding head:


Gaz wasn't faring much better; one word: ruined.


We spent the afternoon at the pool piecing together the previous night's escapades. The weather was glorious, everyone was in a great mood, and Mark and I even hatched a plan to go Japan.

I couldn't get enough of the pool, at one point doing the hilarious playing dead/drowning thing with Mark and Lara:


In the evening I drove some of us into Siena and Lara, Lizzy, Mark, Mike and I found a little pizza joint off the main square. We had a pleasant final meal (ignoring the pizza with an oven-chip topping. Urgh) and then walked through the piazza to get an ice cream.


Here's Lara, the study of concentration as she chooses a flavour:


The following morning it was time to say our goodbyes. We packed up the cottage, caned it back to Pisa on the Autostrada before catching our flight home.

It was a brilliant weekend: old friends, new friends, sunshine, partying, chilling. I wish I could go to weddings like Jenny and Ken's every year.


July 14, 2011

Italy: Amalfi

Barley and Will get married


Elton Mogg Photography 2011
Is there a better way to return from a long trip abroad than taking a short trip abroad to watch your sister get married on an incredible mountainside overlooking the Amalfi coast?

No, didn't think so.

I landed back in the UK from Argentina on the Tuesday afternoon. On the Wednesday I fought off the jetlag and pegged it round the shops in Guildford buying some wedding essentials. You know the sort of thing: deodorant, shoe polish, a shirt, a book of chat-up lines.

On the Thursday morning my alarm trilled at 3.30am and I got ready to face what the world would throw at me on a Thursday morning at 3.30am: namely, a tired climb into the back of a cab and being driven through the dark Surrey roads to Gatwick airport.

Now before I bore anyone to tears by recounting several hours spent in an clone English airport, I shall quickly skip the intervening time between arriving at the airport and departing it. Except to say that Pret A Manger really do make some of the best sandwiches on earth.

Whenever I go away - whether for a weekend in Europe or 5 months in South America - I like to travel light. So while the thieves at Easyjet and Ryanair spent the summer subtly inching up their baggage charges, I decided to stick two fingers up at them by taking hand luggage only.

However, this thrifty little plan had its drawbacks. Well, drawback. While the rest of my family travelled in comfy summer clothers, I opted to travel in my suit. In the middle of a sweltering summer.

Stuffing the suit into my bag would have creased it beyond repair, carrying it in a suit bag would have been an extra item of hand luggage, and checking a bag into the hold would have meant I succumbed to The Man. So I wore it.

Before I mention the downside, here's the upside. Wearing a suit in an airport means you are treated as a Higher Class of Airline Passenger. Shop staff call you 'sir', airline staff open doors for you, security staff let you take a bomb onboard. It's great.

The downside is arriving in a steaming hot country wearing a dark navy suit and trying to negotiate an unfamiliar provincial airport carpark with several family members and their massive items of luggage. Yes, that's you - mum, Molly, Clare.

We were met off the plane by a man whose name escapes me, but who looked like Italy's version of Lovejoy. Think smooth, think neatly-clipped mullet, think twinkling smile.

He walked the Foges family into the searing furnace of a southern Italian summer's day and told us to wait while he went and got the cab. Ten minutes later we were mercifully being cooled with air-con inside his high-topped people carrier. 

We had decided against hiring our own car on the advice of my sister, whose forewarnings of the 'nightmarish' Amalfi coastal roads proved correct. We left Naples airport and drove for a couple of hours south towards Amalfi.

We arrived, 1,678 road bends and several within-an-inch-of-your-life scares later in central Amalfi and were met by sister Barley and groom Will. Barley was the human version of a swan: calmness personified above water, paddling like crazy below.

She and Will had the onerous task of sorting out various wedding-related tasks, being not just a prospective bride and groom, but a taxi reservation system, accommodation concierge and restaurant planners too.

So after a brief hello we left them to it and checked into our perfect little b&b halfway up one of the winding narrow alleyways that back up the hill from central Amalfi:


The next couple of days were spent chilling out on the beach, eating ice cream, having great meals and catching up with family and friends:

First of many drinks for the happy couple

Ken and Jenny join the party
Beatrice and Clare

Flora and Iris play in the sea

Family meal in a great setting


The night before the wedding we moved from our base in Amalfi up to the agriturismo to spend a couple of nights in the stunning hilltop wedding venue:

Elton Mogg Photography 2011

As I write this it's now almost a year on so some of the details are a little hazy, but the Big Day was one of the best ever.

The morning: all hands to the pump preparing decorations, seating, music, flowers:

Elton Mogg Photography 2011

Elton Mogg Photography 2011

The afternoon: quickly getting suited up and running up the mountain in a ball of sweat to greet the guests; waiting for the bride to arrive with a nervous Will...

Elton Mogg Photography 2011

....watching her being walked down the aisle by Chris...

Elton Mogg Photography 2011

And enjoying a brilliantly-devised, fun wedding ceremony which included readings, prayers and thoughts from close family and friends. 

Elton Mogg Photography 2011

Will looked the part in a snappy suit, Church's brogues and a polka dot tie - while Barley's dress was a stunner. You never want a guest's outfit to upstage the marrying couple at a wedding, but there was no danger of that happening here.

Elton Mogg Photography 2011

The one blemish on proceedings was when the person in charge of the music accidentally swiped his finger across the screen of the iPod during one song, meaning half the congregation started singing again from the beginning, while the other half carried on. 

And that person? Me.

But that cock-up aside, it was pretty much the perfect day I'd say. After the ceremony we had some pics taken by the talented photographer Elton Mogg:

Elton Mogg Photography 2011

...before moving to the outdoor eating area for the dinner, speeches (Chris and best man Harry Young doing great jobs) and a few drinks:

Elton Mogg Photography 2011

In the evening the wind picked up, but that didn't stop everyone from heading to the outside impromptu dancefloor to throw a few shapes, mingle and get merry:

Elton Mogg Photography 2011

Julian and Molly getting their groove on there.

I won't detail the hill-climbing/bush-falling/face-bruising/taxi-puking shenanigans performed by a certain unnamed guest, though they know who they are. No(t much) harm was done and her face healed in time for her own wedding a fortnight later.

Oops - did I just give it away?

An unforgettable wedding day ended in the early hours with myself, John, Chris and Mark couched on the sofas overlooking the Med hundreds of feet below:

Elton Mogg Photography 2011

The day after, Mr and Mrs Wíden had organised a hangover-soothing boat trip along the Amalfi coast. It was an ideal way to shake off the limoncello shakes:


The final night of our trip ended with a big (new and extended) family meal down by the harbour and then some of us went to watch a live band in the square:


Their style seemed to be a mix of north African/eastern European/Italian, but it worked. 

All in all, it was a blast. Seeing my family after months away was great in itself, but you'd be hard pushed to put on a better wedding than Barley and Will did.

Raise your glass to the happy couple:

Elton Mogg Photography 2011