What a brilliant day I've just had.
Things have perked up considerably since my last post. Gone are the four hospital walls that I was becoming too accustomed to seeing, gone is the bland food, the needle in my arm.
I had a new doctor in my last 24 hours at the O2 Medical Network, Dr Wendy, who could speak some English (hurrah!) and was a lot more thorough and clear with me than the other male doctor.
Despite my stomach still doing backflips on a regular basis, the fever, headache and nauseousness had gone. Wendy deemed it fit to discharge me yesterday afternoon - armed with a suitcase of drugs, strict instructions on diet for the next week and four bottles of something called Electrolight:
I have to drink it all the time, even in my sleep (he lied). It stops me dehydrating, apparently, so I'm happy with that. Unfortunately it tastes like it contains the combined sugar content of a sweet shop.
So I bade my farewell to the sweet nurses who had looked after me...
...and was given a final lift in the ambulance to my new home:
The Hospedaje Royal Frankenstein was made for the word 'quirky'. It got excellent reviews on TripAdvisor, and in my Footprint guide, so I didn't have any bones (or bolts?) about picking it.
Run by a friendly duo - German Ludwig and his Peruvian wife - The Frankenstein is just what I needed after a few days 'inside'. It is the opposite of a big, lively hostel - so loved by many backpackers - in that it feels like a home that you're a guest in.
I splashed out (15 whole pounds a night) for a private room with private bathroom. I needed a bathroom to myself for obvious reasons...
It has the all-important Wifi, a small kitchen, a nice lounge area, and even an iguana:
Ludwig lights a fire each night for guests and is always on hand to answer the most mundane questions about Cusco, like 'where's a good pizza restaurant?'
The pizza I had last night was great. I'm not allowed vegetables or fruit or dairy, so I was a bit naughty with the tomato and mozarella topping, but what am I supposed to do? Eat bread rolls for a week?
It was a tiny little place called Pizza Carlo, given excellent marks by all reviewers on TripAdvisor. Much as I wanted asparagus, or mushrooms, or onion, I followed Doctor Wendy's advice and went for a meat topping. So I kind of stuck to the dietary agreement.
Today I got up and walked the couple of blocks to the Plaza de Armas. I then spotted these guys:
It turns out that Sunday is a big parade day in Cusco, where various local groups march through the town square with banners. Showing off, I suppose (I didn't see any other reason for the local bank clerks to be there, placards in hand, suited up).
This Sunday was slightly different in that it was a military parade as well. There were lots of dignitaries, all in their Sunday best, and hundreds of locals packed out on the steps below the cathedral to watch the procession.
All sorts of army personnel were there: snipers, parachute regiments, these sand-camouflaged Ewoks:
There were also several army bands, playing the usual triumphant songs - as well as the Peruvian national anthem (which I'm getting to know by heart).
I got my picture with a scary-looking sergeant (or major. Or colonel. Or something) with a blackened face:
I was going to enter into discussion with him about Peru's military history, but I didn't really fancy spending longer than I needed to in his company.
In front of the cathedral there was a real Pomp and Ceremony moment as various army guys frogmarched to the flagpoles and raised two flags: one was the Peruvian national flag and the other looked similar to the universal flag for gay peace.
Maybe it was. Peru does feel quite progressive.
I spent a good couple of hours watching the military precision of this event, which didn't seem to have much of a reason for being, except for the local people to show thanks to - and pride in - their servicemen. All good stuff.
I had a date in the early afternoon, so couldn't hang about. My date was with Cienciano, the local football team, who were playing Union Comercio. I went to the Cienciano HQ in town and bought a ticket for 10 soles (just over two quid).
For my previous games in South America I'd chosen the slightly more expensive seats on the halfway line. This time I wanted to be in with the real fans, so chose a spot behind the goal.
Ticket in hand, I was just about to leave and go to the ground, when I heard more music and saw a dance troupe arriving at the church next door.
There were women in intricately-designed outfits, boys wearing big circular 'things', and several of the creatures from Where The Wild Things Are:
After they'd finished their strange little dance, an even stranger one took place. A man with a huge nose, accompanied by a few men with bizarre masks, performed something similar to Morris dancing. But without the sticks.
No, don't ask me why.
Going from a military procession, to strange dancers, to a football match - all in the space of a few hours - is surely what travelling and seeing the world is all about. It's rarely dull out here.
I got to the stadium with about 20 minutes left of the reserve fixture:
I'm realising this is the norm in South America - the reserves playing before the main teams. It's a good idea as it gets some people in early (spending money) and if you're up for watching 180 minutes of football, you get a decent bang for your buck.
I was lucky to see the game's only two goals, one a penalty for Union:
Cienciano equalised soon after.
Following a brief break, during which I ate a bit of street meat that I carefully watched being (thoroughly) cooked, the main event took place.
With two minutes to go before kick-off, the Cienciano hardcore supporters entered the stadium to the sound of their drums, trumpets, tubas and cymbals. It was brilliantly choreographed and they took up their place on the banked terrace behind the goal (which had been left completely empty by the knowledgable locals).
A few of them scattered like mice to the front of the stand, scaling the high fence to put their massive flags and banners on display:
And then the game began.
If you follow this blog, you'll know I haven't had much luck with seeing goals in South America. In fact, just before kick-off I texted my mate Phil, saying 'if this finishes 0-0, I think I'll shoot myself'.
And what happened? Less than two minutes on the clock and a comedy own goal, right in front of me, gave Cienciano the lead. The hoodoo had gone!
Not long after, up the other end, a weaving run from the opposition striker took him into the box and he rifled the ball home high into the net. One-all and we'd barely begun. A good day was getting better and better.
Before half-time, Cienciano struck again - this time a brilliant volley from the edge of the box. It was end-to-end stuff (as the cliche goes) and the crowd - about 25,000 I'd say (including zero away fans) - were loving it.
With Cienciano on top, they had a chance to put the game out of reach. They won a penalty and their lanky No.9 stood up to take it.
This guy was the captain, but all game I saw him berate his team-mates for no apparent reason, and he kept being guilty of giving the ball away, missing the target, etc.
I took a video of what happened next: http://www.flickr.com/photos/26607248@N08/5587002489/
Justice done, perhaps?
By the way, I can't seem to automatically enable videos to open in a new window so you'll just have to right-click and Open In A New Window/Tab. Apologies.
It proved to be the game's turning point, as in the second half Union got the wind in their sails (possibly after a sail being shoved up their arse by their manager in the break).
They were clearly in the ascendency when they got a free kick on the edge of the box. I got a video of the ensuing goal: http://www.flickr.com/photos/26607248@N08/5587066573/
Nice finish.
After that, the most noteworthy thing was the weather. I had got quite badly sunburnt in my first couple of hours in the stadium, seeing as the sun was beating down and there was nowhere to escape from it.
With 15 minutes left it started to rain, and then it poured, and then there was a deluge. And then it got even worse, but I've run out of rain words so you'll have to ask Michael Fish about how heavy this rain was.
Suddenly it was the turn of budding entrepreneurs to have their minute in thesun rain. Several men appeared out of nowhere selling ponchos for 50p a go.
I reckon they probably sold over 15,000 of the things in about 10 minutes. No joke. Every stand suddenly turned into a collage of pinks, blues, yellows and purples. (Mine was transparent).
Clever guys.
The match was mercifully brought to its conclusion by the referee, and we scampered out of the open terrace, literally wading in puddles as we went. Here's the bunfight for the safety, and dry, of the space under the stadium:
After a couple of dud nil-nils it was great to see a game with lots of incident and goals in a fantastic stadium, sat right behind the best football band I've heard in a while. The quality of football was far better than that served up by Allianza Lima too, and they're top of the league. Strange.
I got back, stuck my sodden clothes in front of the heater for a couple of hours and sorted out my stuff for tomorrow. I'm off on a two-day trip to see Machu Picchu, one of South America's - if not the world's - must-see places. Can't wait.
Here's a few more snaps:
Things have perked up considerably since my last post. Gone are the four hospital walls that I was becoming too accustomed to seeing, gone is the bland food, the needle in my arm.
I had a new doctor in my last 24 hours at the O2 Medical Network, Dr Wendy, who could speak some English (hurrah!) and was a lot more thorough and clear with me than the other male doctor.
Despite my stomach still doing backflips on a regular basis, the fever, headache and nauseousness had gone. Wendy deemed it fit to discharge me yesterday afternoon - armed with a suitcase of drugs, strict instructions on diet for the next week and four bottles of something called Electrolight:
I have to drink it all the time, even in my sleep (he lied). It stops me dehydrating, apparently, so I'm happy with that. Unfortunately it tastes like it contains the combined sugar content of a sweet shop.
So I bade my farewell to the sweet nurses who had looked after me...
 |
| blame the crap picture on the male nurse who took it |
...and was given a final lift in the ambulance to my new home:
The Hospedaje Royal Frankenstein was made for the word 'quirky'. It got excellent reviews on TripAdvisor, and in my Footprint guide, so I didn't have any bones (or bolts?) about picking it.
Run by a friendly duo - German Ludwig and his Peruvian wife - The Frankenstein is just what I needed after a few days 'inside'. It is the opposite of a big, lively hostel - so loved by many backpackers - in that it feels like a home that you're a guest in.
I splashed out (15 whole pounds a night) for a private room with private bathroom. I needed a bathroom to myself for obvious reasons...
It has the all-important Wifi, a small kitchen, a nice lounge area, and even an iguana:
Ludwig lights a fire each night for guests and is always on hand to answer the most mundane questions about Cusco, like 'where's a good pizza restaurant?'
The pizza I had last night was great. I'm not allowed vegetables or fruit or dairy, so I was a bit naughty with the tomato and mozarella topping, but what am I supposed to do? Eat bread rolls for a week?
It was a tiny little place called Pizza Carlo, given excellent marks by all reviewers on TripAdvisor. Much as I wanted asparagus, or mushrooms, or onion, I followed Doctor Wendy's advice and went for a meat topping. So I kind of stuck to the dietary agreement.
Today I got up and walked the couple of blocks to the Plaza de Armas. I then spotted these guys:
It turns out that Sunday is a big parade day in Cusco, where various local groups march through the town square with banners. Showing off, I suppose (I didn't see any other reason for the local bank clerks to be there, placards in hand, suited up).
This Sunday was slightly different in that it was a military parade as well. There were lots of dignitaries, all in their Sunday best, and hundreds of locals packed out on the steps below the cathedral to watch the procession.
All sorts of army personnel were there: snipers, parachute regiments, these sand-camouflaged Ewoks:
There were also several army bands, playing the usual triumphant songs - as well as the Peruvian national anthem (which I'm getting to know by heart).
I got my picture with a scary-looking sergeant (or major. Or colonel. Or something) with a blackened face:
I was going to enter into discussion with him about Peru's military history, but I didn't really fancy spending longer than I needed to in his company.
In front of the cathedral there was a real Pomp and Ceremony moment as various army guys frogmarched to the flagpoles and raised two flags: one was the Peruvian national flag and the other looked similar to the universal flag for gay peace.
Maybe it was. Peru does feel quite progressive.
I spent a good couple of hours watching the military precision of this event, which didn't seem to have much of a reason for being, except for the local people to show thanks to - and pride in - their servicemen. All good stuff.
I had a date in the early afternoon, so couldn't hang about. My date was with Cienciano, the local football team, who were playing Union Comercio. I went to the Cienciano HQ in town and bought a ticket for 10 soles (just over two quid).
For my previous games in South America I'd chosen the slightly more expensive seats on the halfway line. This time I wanted to be in with the real fans, so chose a spot behind the goal.
Ticket in hand, I was just about to leave and go to the ground, when I heard more music and saw a dance troupe arriving at the church next door.
There were women in intricately-designed outfits, boys wearing big circular 'things', and several of the creatures from Where The Wild Things Are:
After they'd finished their strange little dance, an even stranger one took place. A man with a huge nose, accompanied by a few men with bizarre masks, performed something similar to Morris dancing. But without the sticks.
No, don't ask me why.
Going from a military procession, to strange dancers, to a football match - all in the space of a few hours - is surely what travelling and seeing the world is all about. It's rarely dull out here.
I got to the stadium with about 20 minutes left of the reserve fixture:
I'm realising this is the norm in South America - the reserves playing before the main teams. It's a good idea as it gets some people in early (spending money) and if you're up for watching 180 minutes of football, you get a decent bang for your buck.
I was lucky to see the game's only two goals, one a penalty for Union:
Cienciano equalised soon after.
Following a brief break, during which I ate a bit of street meat that I carefully watched being (thoroughly) cooked, the main event took place.
With two minutes to go before kick-off, the Cienciano hardcore supporters entered the stadium to the sound of their drums, trumpets, tubas and cymbals. It was brilliantly choreographed and they took up their place on the banked terrace behind the goal (which had been left completely empty by the knowledgable locals).
A few of them scattered like mice to the front of the stand, scaling the high fence to put their massive flags and banners on display:
And then the game began.
If you follow this blog, you'll know I haven't had much luck with seeing goals in South America. In fact, just before kick-off I texted my mate Phil, saying 'if this finishes 0-0, I think I'll shoot myself'.
And what happened? Less than two minutes on the clock and a comedy own goal, right in front of me, gave Cienciano the lead. The hoodoo had gone!
Not long after, up the other end, a weaving run from the opposition striker took him into the box and he rifled the ball home high into the net. One-all and we'd barely begun. A good day was getting better and better.
Before half-time, Cienciano struck again - this time a brilliant volley from the edge of the box. It was end-to-end stuff (as the cliche goes) and the crowd - about 25,000 I'd say (including zero away fans) - were loving it.
With Cienciano on top, they had a chance to put the game out of reach. They won a penalty and their lanky No.9 stood up to take it.
This guy was the captain, but all game I saw him berate his team-mates for no apparent reason, and he kept being guilty of giving the ball away, missing the target, etc.
I took a video of what happened next: http://www.flickr.com/photos/26607248@N08/5587002489/
Justice done, perhaps?
By the way, I can't seem to automatically enable videos to open in a new window so you'll just have to right-click and Open In A New Window/Tab. Apologies.
It proved to be the game's turning point, as in the second half Union got the wind in their sails (possibly after a sail being shoved up their arse by their manager in the break).
They were clearly in the ascendency when they got a free kick on the edge of the box. I got a video of the ensuing goal: http://www.flickr.com/photos/26607248@N08/5587066573/
Nice finish.
After that, the most noteworthy thing was the weather. I had got quite badly sunburnt in my first couple of hours in the stadium, seeing as the sun was beating down and there was nowhere to escape from it.
With 15 minutes left it started to rain, and then it poured, and then there was a deluge. And then it got even worse, but I've run out of rain words so you'll have to ask Michael Fish about how heavy this rain was.
Suddenly it was the turn of budding entrepreneurs to have their minute in the
I reckon they probably sold over 15,000 of the things in about 10 minutes. No joke. Every stand suddenly turned into a collage of pinks, blues, yellows and purples. (Mine was transparent).
Clever guys.
The match was mercifully brought to its conclusion by the referee, and we scampered out of the open terrace, literally wading in puddles as we went. Here's the bunfight for the safety, and dry, of the space under the stadium:
After a couple of dud nil-nils it was great to see a game with lots of incident and goals in a fantastic stadium, sat right behind the best football band I've heard in a while. The quality of football was far better than that served up by Allianza Lima too, and they're top of the league. Strange.
I got back, stuck my sodden clothes in front of the heater for a couple of hours and sorted out my stuff for tomorrow. I'm off on a two-day trip to see Machu Picchu, one of South America's - if not the world's - must-see places. Can't wait.
Here's a few more snaps:
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| Taking the pet for a walk |
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| Parade at the Plaza de Armas |
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| In the ground, getting burnt |
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| Cienciano flag |
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| Frank |