January 07, 2011

India: Gokarna (1)

I've moved on to the holy town of Gokarna, just over the state border of Goa/Karnataka. Now the reason I've come here is threefold:

a) most people I've met so far have recommended it as a chilled-out place to spend a few days
b) my guidebook (which is a bit dry, but seems to be fairly reliable so far) also said it was a must-do
c) the recruitment company I use at work is called Gorkana, so the name interested me

Anyway, so after only a short time in Goa - maybe too short? - I reached Gokarna town yesterday afternoon. The method of transport: normal (ie, non A/C) train from Chaudi:




The journey was a more real experience than the one down from Mumbai to Goa. As in, real to regular Indian travellers. It may be a bit of a cliche, people hanging out of open doors, four-seater berths occupied by at least six (plus luggage!) and a ceiling peppered with fans on full blast - but to actually experience was enjoyably chaotic, interesting and memorable. And I'm sure there'll be many more to come over the next few weeks.

Journey done, and the Gokarna travellers were met with the usual phalanx of rickshaw/taxi/bike riders as we exited the station. Most people - in fact I think everyone except me - were going straight to the beaches south of town. I wanted to spend a night in the town itself so hopped in a rickshaw on my tod, after the usual bit of bartering.

I checked into the guesthouse (cheapest place yet at 250 rupees - about 3.5 quid) and headed into town. Gokarna is one of seven designated holy sites in India (there's a proper name for 'holy' but its name escapes me) and has several temples. I visited an amazing spice market and had my first thali at a restaurant manned by the surliest manager I've met in a while.

I've just been told to vacate this internet cafe as it's closing for the night. Continued tomorrow....